Day 5: Dunbeath to Helmsdale
Distance: 16.30 miles (26.23 km)
Weather: Overcast with an easterly chilly breeze
Start Time: 08:51
Finish Time: 15:58
Today’s journey took me from Dunbeath to Helmsdale, and after considering all my options, I decided to walk along the road. The route was safe, with light traffic and wide verges that kept me clear of any potential hazards. The weather was a bit on the cool side with an easterly breeze, and while the overcast skies didn’t provide the bright sunshine I’ve had on other days, it was manageable.
As for the terrain, it was a challenging day with steep climbs, totalling an elevation gain of 1,245 feet. The steepest part of the walk came about midway through the day when I reached a long, steep 13% gradient that stretched for about a mile. That section really got the heart rate up!
A welcome break came in the form of a coffee stop at the River Bothy in Berriedale. After coffee I had an interesting chat with a cyclist I was keeping pace with going up the hill but at the top he disappeared into the distance leaving me to take in the views and enjoy the walk at my own pace.
Speaking of views, the landscape today was stunning, with dramatic mountains in the distance and ever-changing scenery. The highlight for me was passing the hotel I stayed at years ago when I was meeting friends who were cycling to John o' Groats. It brought back some great memories!
The old A9 road is still present in certain areas, particularly close to the entrance of the hotel. It was a reminder of the history of the route, when the old road was much narrower than the new A9. The new A9 is a vast improvement, with wide verges and is much safer for both drivers and walkers.
Tonight’s stopover is a bit more rustic - I’m staying in a car park in Helmsdale! There’s just a toilet and shower block, but it’s practical enough for my needs.
Tomorrow, I’ll be heading back on the coastal route, and the weather is forecast to be cold but dry, which I’m looking forward to.
Now for supper - the local chippie sells gluten free fish and chips so I’m going to try them!
