Day 21: Beinglas Campsite to Cashell Campsite
Distance: 19.81 miles / 31.88 km
Weather: Overcast to start, then persistent rain
Start: 08:12
Finish: 18:08
Today was one of those days where every mile really made itself known.
The first challenge came right out of the gate: finding the actual footpath out of the campsite. Once that was behind me, things seemed promising – gentle going for the first half hour with beautiful views overlooking the top end of Loch Lomond.
Then the fun began. And by “fun,” I mean a tough, four-hour slog through rugged terrain that rivalled some of the worst Lake District paths. Picture this: raining, massive rocky outcrops to slither, scramble and climb over, and narrow trails hugging the hillside with Loch Lomond stretching far below. Not for the faint-hearted and in places out of my comfort zone.
The going was painfully slow. The terrain was unforgiving, and on top of that there was a steady stream of walkers coming in the opposite direction, which meant frequent stops to let people pass on the narrow single-track path.
After nearly five hours and just five miles, I finally arrived at the Inversnaid Hotel, a much-needed break. There is a room there just for walkers – somewhere to dry off and enjoy your packed lunch in a bit of comfort.
From there the path improved considerably. Still raining, but the obstacles eased up and eventually gave way to a forest road leading to Rowardennan. A welcome surprise awaited there – Adam’s friend Andrea, who’s working at the Rowardennan YHA. She was an absolute star, greeting me with warm tea and snacks before I pressed on along the road to the night’s stop at Cashell Campsite.
Difficult doesn’t quite capture the day, but the kindness of Andrea and a well-earned pub dinner with her and Adam later on lifted the spirits.
Tomorrow is a much shorter day at just 9 miles. Fingers crossed the weather shows some mercy.
