The Knights Templar and wine in a scallop shell
Monday, September 5th
Pamplona to Puente de la Reina
Distance: officially 23.8 km (14.8 miles), but I added a bit extra to visit the church of Santa Maria de Eunate, so total 20.6 km (16 miles)
Weather: nice and fresh in the morning but hot from midday onwards.
The walk started through the outlying suburbs of Pamplona through the university area and then out into the countryside. Some of the ground around here is very barren at present, all the grass having been burnt off with the heat, and it looks like some of the trees and shrubbery have been on fire.
The highlight of the morning was the climb up to Alto del Perdon ( 790 metres) after visiting a beautiful small church in the village of Zariquiedui where I collected yet another stamp – the second of the day. At the summit of the Alto del Perdón there is a sculpture of pilgrims which overlooks the valley below (see photographs: you might recognise one of the pilgrims)!
Then it was onward for lunch at the church of Santa María de Eunate. This church is a beautiful 12th century Romanesque church, said to be one of the jewels of the Camino. It’s linked to the Knights Templar although there’s no real evidence support to support it. However its octagonal shape suggests that it was modelled on Holy Sepulchre church in Jerusalem. After lunch I journeyed down to our final destination at Puente la Reina.
It’s a quaint town with a lot of character, and my hotel was right on the the main street. A relaxing afternoon was spent in great company, with a beer in the afternoon sun followed by dinner. All my dining companions were female, I have a feeling I looked like I was in need of a little taking care of!
Tuesday, September 6th
Puente de la Reina to Estella
Distance: 22 km (13.6 miles)
Weather: cool to start with but up to 32C by midday.
Fortunately breakfast was available from 6am so I was able to get an early start at about 7.15am.
Today was a very easy day walking through vineyards and olive groves and taking in small villages (mostly on the top of hills!) However the inclines were short and not too bad, and on the way we enjoyed fresh melon from a local seller, where we were also able to have our cards stamped again. I arrived at my destination of Estella at 12.15pm.
The hotel not only had laundry facilities (thank goodness) but also air conditioning, so compared to some previous accommodation I was in the lap of luxury!
Wednesday, September 7th
Estella to Los Arcos
Weather: slightly overcast and about 21°
Today the hike led through attractive countryside, mainly corn fields, vineyards, and olive groves. There was one climb up to 700 metres, however I was sustained on the way by a wine fountain where all the walkers were able to stop for a drink. I took my wine in a scallop shell which is said to be the traditional way the pilgrims drank: very refreshing! After reaching the summit, Villamayor de Monjardin, it was pretty well downhill all the way into Los Arcos, a small town with a very beautiful church.
A really easy day today but tomorrow is a bit more of a challenge: 18 miles to Logrono.
