Epilogue

On September 2nd 2022 I set out on what I thought was a “just” a long distance walk of 500 miles from St Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago in northwest Spain.

Although I’ve walked many long-distance footpaths over the years never have I walked over 200 miles in one go. As you can see from my posts over the 37 days that it took me to do the walk, this was not so much a physical challenge as an emotional and inspirational experience.

Of course I expected to meet walkers on the way, but it very quickly occurred to me that rather than just walkers, we were pilgrims, following a path walked by others since the year 950 AD!

But what made us pilgrims? Well, to understand that we need to know a little history…

Whilst there is no historical evidence to support the contention that Saint James preached in Galicia, there is some anecdotal evidence that St James sailed to Galicia (probably Pedron and Finisterre) to preach to the pagan population. Apparently this mission met with only limited success and so Saint James returned to Jerusalem. There he was beheaded by Herod in 42 AD and Saint James’s disciples brought his body back via Pedronin so that it could be buried at what was then the worlds’ end - Finisterre.

However this idea was abandoned when the legendary Queen Lupe conspired with the Roman Legate in Finisterre to destroyed Saint James's body and those of his disciples. Apparently they escaped over the river Tambre, and as Santiago was not far away they finally laid Saint James's body to rest there.

This story marks the beginning of the Santiago story but it wasn't until 950 AD that the pilgrimages began, the story of St James having been lost in the mists of time prior to the first journey by Bishop Goterscalo to Santiago.

So that’s why we were pilgrims, making a journey to the shrine of St James in Santiago. Nowadays thousands each year tread the footpath to complete this journey.

I started from Saint Jean Pied de Port, with my scallop shell being the symbol of the pilgrim. Before I set off I had to attend the pilgrims’ office in St Jean where it was recorded that I was making the journey, and where I was given my Credencial del Peregrino (pilgrim’s passport) which had to be stamped at each destination along the way, so I could prove I had travelled the Camino to Santiago, whereupon I would receive my Compostela.

An abiding memory was the first day, having left St Jean and climbing 4000 feet over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, and crossing the Spanish border along the way. Quite a challenging start!

Another reflection is how many pilgrims were starting out in those first few days, how friendly everyone was, very willing to help if anyone was in difficulty, and almost immediately there appeared to be a form of bonding between all those undertaking the route.

I’ve met many people from around the world on this journey, have walked with them, talked with them, had meals with them and we’ve discussed each others’ lives, including their problems, troubles and tragedies. These people have been amazing and personally very kind to me in many, many ways.

Of course we have also walked through beautiful countryside, in glorious weather, seen lovely villages and towns, been inspired by wonderful architecture and have been in countless churches.

In those churches Pilgrim Masses were extraordinary and are very difficult to explain. All the Masses were in Spanish, and for those of us not of Catholic faith a struggle to understand, and yet somehow we did. Following the Mass the priest would invite the pilgrims to join him at the altar for a prayer and sometimes a song in the pilgrims’ own languages, followed by his blessing for a safe journey to Santiago. These Pilgrim Masses were for many hugely emotional, and even for those who had a different faith, or none at all, they became important and very special.

I've enjoyed the company of many and have made so many friends that it will be difficult to keep up with them all. I wish everybody well in whatever they may do in the future.

There are many people that have supported me during this journey. I would like to thank all who have donated to Alzheimer's Research UK and for helping me towards my target of £15,000 which would fund a research student.

A huge thank you also to everyone who left comments on my website, which have been interesting, supportive, amusing, and certainly encouraged me to keep going.

I thank my family and close friends who initially encouraged me to undertake this journey and then of course for their support along the way, without which I might never have made the trip.

And finally I would like to thank Jonathan and Chris for their immense support. Chris designed and put together my website and edited my blog, and together with Rebecca created the publicity material. And Jonathan was invaluable with his practical help discussing logistics, itinerary, making the right choices in technical clothing and a source of constant support and encouragement.

So this is the end of the pilgrimage, but my passion to raise awareness of Alzheimer's disease and to support the necessary fundraising for Alzheimer’s Research UK goes on.

Much work needs to be done in order to achieve a breakthrough in preventing and hopefully finding a cure for this terrible disease. At last it appears that such a breakthrough may be on the horizon, given the very good news that drugs recently trialled have had a positive effect on potentially slowing the progression of Alzheimer's disease. May funding be provided to enable this work to continue.