Autumn’s coming
Saturday, September 24th
Rest day
Weather: sunny but chilly breeze
Today I’ve had a rest day in Orbigo following a long day yesterday. Had a lazy lie in, late breakfast, did some shopping, and then spent time by the river.
Orbigo is small town that boasts a jousting field and a very ancient bridge built on the Roman foundations. The bridge is said to be one of the longest best preserved mediaeval bridges in Spain, dating from the 13th century and is built over an earlier Roman bridge. There is a section of the bridge called the ‘Passage of Honour’, so named because of a famous jousting tournament which took place here in the holy year 1434.
The story goes that a noble knight from Leon had been scorned by a beautiful lady and threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass over the bridge as he undertook to defend it. The knight successfully defended the bridge for a month until the required 300 lances had been broken. He then went with comrades to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honour that had been restored.
Orbigo is a the town founded by the Knights Hospitaller of St John who built a hospital here in the 12th century. Today it’s mainly supported by the pilgrims on the Camino who who use it as an overnight stop.
Tonight’s hotel was excellent, run by a husband and wife, and for once we had access to an enclosed garden as you’ll see in the photos.
Tomorrow another shortish day into Astorga.
Sunday, September 25th
Orbigo to Astorga
Weather: fine but chilly out of the sun
There’s definitely been a change in the weather over the last two days. Out of the sunshine it is quite cold and today for the first time I’ve put a second layer on when walking. Sitting out in the squares having a beer or some food is now a question of whether you can find a spot in the sun or if it’s best to be inside.
From Orbigo we have left the flat plains of the Maseta behind and slowly but surely we are coming into more undulating and eventually hilly countryside. It makes for more interesting walking and today we have had not so many long straight sections but more twists and turns and ups and downs.
I walked for some time with a man from Stockport and then later met friends that I haven’t seen for nearly a week as I got closer to Astorga. Sometimes that’s just how it is on the Camino because it’s such a long walk that people take rest days and it can take a long time to catch up.
In the hotel last night I had dinner with three Americans and a lady from Perth, Western Australia. Interesting discussions were had with regard to both American and British politics, the death of the Queen and how others see Britain, especially now that we’ve left the European Union.
I arrived early in Astorga today and lunched with my American friends (see photos of them with large sandwiches!) We visited the cathedral, although at first we weren’t allowed to go in because of a service being held, although later we were allowed (see photographs).
Tonight I had dinner with a large group from America who will be in front of me from here on in so I wished them well and we said our goodbyes.
Monday, September 26th
Astorga to Rabanal de Camino
Weather: Chilly until about 11.00 then warm and sunny
This has been a fairly easy day, the first 10 km (6 miles) went quickly as I walked with Judy from Newfoundland and we chatted most of the way. I had a stop for coffee and then another couple of stops because clearly I was going to be at my accommodation far too quickly!
The scenery today has changed yet again and we have had undulating paths through oak and pine forests. We’ve also had our first real ascent for probably nearly 2 weeks because Rabanal is at 1155 metres so we have had a climb from Astorga of approximately 400 m, although spread across the 20 km (12.8 miles) of the walk.
I’ve met new people again and particularly had a long chat and a coffee with Neil from Cambridge who is clearly a seasoned walker and has recently done the Appalachian Trail earlier this year.
I was also able to do some laundry at the hotel today, an added bonus as I was beginning to run out of clothing..,.!
As I mention in my video, tomorrow will be an emotional day: on the top of a hill called Puerta Irago there’s an iron cross which has become an abiding symbol for the pilgrims on this Camino, traditionally a place where they place a stone or momento to remember someone or something special. More on that tomorrow.
